Tuesday 7th August 2007

It was unexpectedly clear last night so I took the decision late in the evening to get the scope out and setup in the dark. Everything went together fine, Polaris was just outside the circle so I made the final adjustments and readied myself for a couple of hours of imaging. I can’t be out too late with my alarm set for 6am so made a mental note to start packing up after midnight.

The session seemed to be going ok, I was able to find targets and went inside to leave the LX do it’s thing without me causing unnecessary vibrations. I managed to get AVIs of M16, M81, M82, M51, M31,M57, M20 and M27 with a short clip of Cor Caroli thrown in for good measure. What I hadn’t noticed, by not watching the imaging sessions, was that I had a lot of movement in the mount and my 40 second exposures where nearly all reduced to short streaks rather than fine points.
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Processing has been a little disappointing with very few usable frames. This M82 is not too bad but you can see from the strange shape of the stars that things didn’t go to plan. I’ll take my time over the M31, I think I’ve got faint dust lanes outside the centre of the galaxy, but it may just be my imagination.

To think I’d re-targetted these M’s to improve on those I already had – that’ll teach me! I must sort something out with the guidescope if I’m going to get any long exposures over 40 seconds.

Hopefully the IR/UV filter will arrive tomorrow, that’ll give me something new to experiment with.

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k3ccd_0001-m82.jpg

I’ve just reprocessed the M82 image using K3CCDTools instead of my usual first choice Registax. I processed the result as x2 and then desaturated the image in PhotoShop. I was comparing the image with Starry Night to see what details I was missing when I noticed the star below the galaxy (to the right in the image) has an apparent magnitude of 17.6. I think this may be the faintest star I’ve imaged (and noticed) to date.

Sunday 5th August 2007

We had guests over last night so I played the host and BBQ master, which required me to leave my scope indoors. I can’t complain, we had a good evening.
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After a scorching afternoon today with temperatures approaching 30°C the clouds rolled in and the forecast suggested rain by the morning. Another evening lost, but also a chance to take a look at the 1004x and see why it didn’t work the other night.

I lifted the lid on the camera and removed the 1.25″ eyepiece adapter to release the camera board from the housing. There’s only one wire soldered to this board which is variable boost as documented elsewhere on this site. This yellow wire connects to a switch then through a variable resister and fixed resister to ground.  I checked the solder joint by picking at it with a pointy probe. No movement detected. I then inspected the connector I use to link the yellow wire to the wire which comes from the switch, again everything looked ok.
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I powered up the camera, linked it to K3CCDTools and got the same image I had the other night. Covering the CCD causes the light areas to darken so it looks like something is going on. A quick check with the multimeter confirmed 12v at the power connector, so the issue is on the board rather than with the connections. I use the same frame grabber with my ICE camera so I know that’s ok.

I powered off and set about reconnecting the board to the case using the eyepiece adapter. I now noticed the camera board was very hot to touch, not just the lens holder which acts as a heat sink, but the whole board. I think I just found my problem. Now I reconnected the power while watching the output on the screen, the image appeared normal for a split second then returned to a smudgy blur.

So it seems like the camera is unusable. There’s been a thread on QCUIAG lately regarding peltier coolers, I wonder if the camera would work if I could keep the temperature down.  Seems like another project has just taken shape :)

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I’ve also ordered a Baader UV/IR Blocking filter from Rother Valley Optics which should arrive early next week. I chose RVO as there was no delivery charge and the item was the same price as most other outlets.

I’m hoping this filter will help with planetary detail although it seems my original reason for wanting it, to reduce star bloat, is not an issue with a Newtonian scope. buvir.jpg

Star bloat occurs when lenses cannot focus all frequencies (colours) of light to a single point with IR being the main cause of this. Mirrors, as in the Newtonian scope, are able to focus all frequencies to a single point and therefore are not prone to “bloat”. I’ve been advised that an IR filter will however help me to capture more realistic colours and will certainly help if I put it onto the guidescope. Although this again is a contentious issue with some people preferring a bloated star to guide on as it’s easier to track.

Friday 3rd August 2007

Where shall I start, I’m almost glad it’s cloudy tonight so that I can catch up on some processing and some much needed sleep :)

Tuesday: I attached the “guidescope” and had a go at autoguiding, but my 1004x wasn’t working and the SPC900NC was needed for imaging. I did try the SPC900 just to see if the guidescope was up to the task and was disappointed to find that stars couldn’t be focused to a point. I think this may be due to the small pixel size on the CCD and hope the 1004x will do a better job when I get it working.  After several hours of playing with different guide software I ended the session with some images and got my best M82 to date.k3ccd_0005-m82.jpg This image was made by stacking 24×40 second frames using Registax and finishing the image off in Photoshop.

I also got a good M57 and some Jupiter shots, but I’m not happy with the results I’m getting with the SPC900 in “video” mode, so have been using the ICE and Trust cameras for planetary work.

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Wednesday: I wasn’t happy with the setup and after a 3 star alignment chose Albireo in Cygnus at random to check if the mount was working. What a surprise to find this jewel winking at me from the center of my screen. Id never looked in this direction before and was surprised by the colour difference brightness of this double star.

I got some more M82’s and also bagged Mizar while I was doing the doubles. Taking a little time to set the mount up properly is paying off with better tracking which in turn leads to longer exposures. I pushed the camera to over 60 seconds just to see how it held up, but with a slight breeze nudging the scope from time to time I didn’t get many usable frames. I also took time to play with the camera settings and found that reducing the gamma and gain controls helped me keep the backdrops darker. Every night I learn something new.

Thursday: I started by getting a few more shots of Albireo to show my son before his bedtime, but it doesn’t get dark until 10:30 so he wasn’t able to stay up to see galaxies and nebulae. We’ll have to wait until October for dark evenings, and hopefully by then I’ll be better at taking these long exposure shots.

After slewing across the sky making sure the mount was aligned I hit the tour button on the hand controller and was amazed to see the Swan Nebula appear before me. I hadn’t considered the SPC900 sensitive enough to pick up colourful nebula, but with no breeze the LX modded camera was happily doing 40 second exposures and before long I had 24 frames saved to disk.

Happy with my first southerly nebula I entered M16 into the controller but wasn’t able to make out any nebulosity only a group of bright stars. I quickly fired up Starry Night and checked which Messier objects were visible in the low southern sky and armed with a list I returned to the scope. M8 was next, and after tweaking the camera settings I was able to get 20 frames at 30 seconds each.k3ccd_0009-m8.jpg WOW, the nebula showed up easily on the screen and the stacked version can be seen here.

Something that is apparent from this image is that I need to buy an IR filter. The stars are far too bloated and I’m sure a filter will reduce them to pin points. My LPR filter does a good of taking the orange glow out, but I’ve dropped it into conversation with my wife and will take a look for one online after completing this post.

After M8, I turned to M18, just to get it onto my Messier chart. Open clusters are not too impressive without a focal reducer, perhaps I’ll drop that into conversation as well :) Something that puts me off buying a focal reducer is that the Newtonian scope will need the mirror shifted upwards in order reach focus. I’ve only just got the collimation sorted out so don’t want to mess around with primary again for a while.

Next was M20, again I couldn’t see anything on the screen and was about move to another object when a sideways glance revealed what appeared to be a dark area near two bright stars. I centered the image on the stars and tweaked the camera settings again. The nebula was there but only just visible.  26 frames at 40 seconds each gave me something to work with and a recognizable image has now been added to my chart (see images).

It was getting late again, but not wanting to squander an opportunity and knowing that I could have a later start in work the next morning I turned the scope on M16 again.

Now that the camera was set to 40 seconds and the brightness, contrast, gamma and gain where set to show fainter features, I was just able to make out a small area of nebulosity to the mid left of the image. I increased the exposure to 90 seconds, started imaging and went indoors to complete a sudoku. It was far too late for puzzles, and I was glad I’d used pencil to randomly enter numbers in the empty squares. Too many late nights and early starts where starting to get to me.

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With only ten frames recorded I cancelled the session and packed everything away. On processing this last image I found only 1 frame usable, the others were all spoilled by PE or wind or my dog running around the mount, whatever it was I know this is one nebula I’ll be revisiting when I get another clear night.

I’m off to look for filters now………

Oh by the way, I’ve taken the guidescope off for now until I can fix the 1004x and test it with the scope in daylight. I don’t want to waste valuable hours under a dark sky trying that again!

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Tuesday 31st July 2007

It’s been clear the last 3 nights. Sunday I was out until around 1am but having to get up at 6am for work brought an early end to the session. Monday evening, after Karate, I was too tired to stay up and had an early night, but tonight I think I’ll have another couple of hours imaging.

 I’ve spent an hour or so knocking together a mount for my “guidescope”.  To the untrained eye it looks to be made from a piece of drainpipe, but a closer look reveals its actually a fan duct! I don’t have time to fit it this evening but hopefully this will allow me to take a step into autoguiding. If not I’ll have to take the plunge and buy some proper mounts.

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The sun is setting in the sky …. I’m off to set the scope up.

Thursday 26th July 2007

Finally I got to the bottom of the LX modded camera not working. The error it seems was intermittent, so it appeared to work when plugged into my one PC then failed to work when plugged into another.  The fault was a wire had lifted off the board and taken part of the solder pad with it. With the wire being a single strand from a CAT5 cable it was very stiff so on occasion would sit back in the position from which it came.
brokenwire.jpg

As soon as I found this I resoldered the joint replacing the stiff wire with a more flexible multi strand type to prevent stress on the joint. This is important as the solder pad is now damaged and there’s not much left to solder the wire onto.

I managed to reassemble the camera without introducing further faults and a quick test showed the issue has been resolved.

The SPC900NC is my best planetary camera as well as being my only LX camera, so now that it’s workingI hope I get a clear night to try for Jupiter again. I had a look at the collimation on my scope last night and adjusted the secodary which appeared to have been a little off centre. I think the last time I adjusted it was during a late session and I must have got it close and left it. The collimating cap I have with a small central hole that fits into the eyepiece holder requires your eye to be placed very near to the hole in order to check for concentric circles in the secondary reflections. As I wear glasses this is not possible and without the glasses I can’t see to the bottom of the telescope tube! Perhaps I should collimate with a camera in the eyepiece holder?

Anyway, I’ll document my next visit to the patio and I’ll let you know if the mirrors are aligned or not.